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The majority of the stations need not be described; they consist of a church and a residence for the priest, both usually situated in a large compound surrounded by a mud wall of varying height. But there are two stations which merit attention, these being the fortress-like inclosures of IIsiao Chiao Pan and Santauho. IIsiao Chiao Pan is situated in the southernmost corner of the kingdom of Ottok and to the north of the Great Wall. It is a day to the south of Borobalgasson, six days' south-east of Ninghsiafu, and six days' south-west of Yulinfu, a prefectural town in Shensi. The mountains which separate China and the Ordos country are some 3 miles to the south. The plain in which the missions have established themselves is well watered and fertile; it is peopled entirely by Chinese, who have gradually pushed the Mongols northwards. A stretch of desolate sand-hills, entirely devoid of all cultivation, separate Hsiao Chiao and Borobalgasson; over these the Chinese have not pushed their way as yet. The first impression of the traveller on approaching Hsiao Chiao will be that he is coming to an ordinary walled Chinese town, though perhaps a little smaller than usual. It is only on approaching close that the cross on the small tower of the church in the centre of the inclosure becoming visible the nature of the place is indicated.
The walls of the fortress are some 25 feet high and each is some 200 yards long. They are of loess which has become as hard as brick and is able to stand rifle fire. At the top the walls are some 4 feet broad, and there is a rampart 3 feet high, provided with holes for firing through. The fortress is entered by a gate in the east wall. This gate is of the usual Chinese pattern with enceinte. Outside the east wall are eight rows of houses for the Chinese converts; the population is between 800 and 900. These rows of houses are built at right angles to the wall. Inside the fortress walls there is the church and priests' quarters-at present there are two European priests stationed here, the "sainte-enfance," which is an establishment for girls, of whom there are about sixty, who are looked after by three Chinese Sisters. These girls are married off to Christian converts soon after the age of 16. There are also a small garden in which grow all manner of fruits and vegetables (among the former there are even grapes, from which the priests- make a pleasant wine), and a large building in which grain is stored. There is, of course, a well in the inclosure.
In 1900 the mission had to undergo a siege which lasted for two months; they were attacked by strong bands of Chinese and Mongol Boxers, the latter, it has always been alleged, being egged on to do so by the Chinese Government. The defenders were some 300 native Christians and 15 European priests. Though armed with only a few rifles, sporting guns, and revolvers they were able to successfully resist all attacks. There was good water in the fortress, and, as a large number of cattle was brought in, fresh meat was always obtainable. The only European casualty during the siege was the death of one priest. His loss and that of Bishop Hamer were the only losses the Belgian Mission had to experience in 1900. I believe that a couple of years subsequent to this two of their priests were murdered in Ninghsia. Since the events of 1900 the fortress walls have been strengthened, and some forty rifles with the necessary amount of ammunition are stored at the station. In the event of future trouble the priests in the outlying stations would retire on Hsiao Chiao, as in 1900, and give a good account of themselves. Since 1900 the district has been untroubled except for brigands and robbers. About four years ago the mission received news that a baud, 20 strong, was going to attack them, so the local authorities were warned and sent soldiers, who routed the band, capturing three of the ringleaders, who were beheaded. The relations between the mission and the provincial authorities are said to be excellent; if any serious case arises the Bishop, if possible, settles it personally at Lanchowfu with the Viceroy. In reply to my questions as to who had charge now of their interests in Peking (the German and Italian Govern. ments, of course, insist on representing their own nationals in China, even though these are missionaries), the priests said that the French Legation still acted for them, and looked after their interests well. The priests added that the French Legation knew very well that if they did not do so those interests would be speedily transferred to another Legation, and that the German Legation were quite ready to undertake the duty.
After the siege the Mongols brought the mission many beasts of all sorts and offered them as retribution, but the mission had no need of these and refused them. They were given instead a large amount of land, thus becoming what they have always desired to be-ground owners. In addition to the amount they own, they also rent a good deal from the Mongols, paying rent at the usual rates. of land, the mission demanded a large indemnity-all their outlying churches had been destroyed, and many Christian villages had suffered greatly. The Chinese Government condemned the three Princes of the Ordos whose subjects had shared in the Boxer
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movement at the instigation, be it remembered, of the Government themselves-- Ottok, Wushin, and Djassak to pay 250,000 taels (37,5001), Ottok had to pay 100,000 taels (15,000%), Wushin 80,000 taels (12,000), and Djassak 70,000 taels (10,500%). These Princes, who are for the most part merely shepherd kings, whose wealth consists in the number of flocks they possess, could not pay more than 190,000 taels (28,5007). The rest of the money was provided by some Chinese officials in Shensi, who in return obtained a concession for twenty-seven years at Chagan Noor, in the Province of Wushin, for extracting salt from the lake bed in that locality. These officials have a Chinese representative at the lake employed in the work, and a visit to whose house I have already described.
The method adopted by the mission to attract Chinese are worthy of special attention. At the same time that they established a station and a church they build a number of cottages. In these the Chinese who care to come are allowed to live rent free; they have to pay a small amount for the mission land which they cultivate. Sometimes the applicants for the cottages are absolutely destitute; these are clothed and fed until able to take care of themselves. The occupants of the cottages thus soon become Christians, and this is the more easily understood when it is remembered that the Roman Catholic missions support their converts in lawsuits. Whatever view is taken respecting the means adopted by the mission to secure converts, it cannot but be admitted that they do a truly charitable work in rescuing many who would otherwise doubtless starve. If I understand the priests aright, they have doubts themselves as to the value of their converts, but they affirm that at any rate the children of these are Christian, and they maintain this to be the essential part. I was not favourably impressed with the results of the priests' efforts as regards the 8th Commandment. At all the stations I was asked whether I had locked my room door on leaving it.
When I replied in the negative, and added that, in my opinion, to have done so would have certainly implied doubts in my mind as to my host's honesty, I was warmly begged to do so, and assured that they-my hosts-never left their own rooms without locking them up, for these Chinese Christians will steal anything."
The troubles of the priests are numerous. Whole villages do not hesitate to renounce their faith if they think there is any danger to themselves in adhering to it. Recently the authorities in the neighbourhood of Kweihuacheng wished to take a religious census of the population, and a certain village was described as Christian. As this measure preceded the Boxer troubles also, the village in question was very alarmned, and sent representatives to the authorities to have their name erased, as they had left the Roman Catholics. The local priest subsequently visited the local official and naïvely requested him to order the village to return to the Church.
As regards the cultivation of the fields belonging to the mission by converts the system of payment is probably the same throughout the two dioceses of Eastern and Western Mongolia. Mr. C. W. Campbell visiting a "chrétienté" in the Eastern Mongolian diocese in 1899 wrote "the mission land is tilled on the metayer system, 10 to 30 per cent, of the produce being surrendered according to the yield.”
The missions have done an excellent thing in declaring war against the cultivation or use of opium. Christians are forbidden to grow or smoke it. In the latter case they sometimes escape detection, but are punished if discovered. In the former case the soil in the Ordos is entirely unsuited for the poppy; it is otherwise in the Santauhu district where a great deal is cultivated by the heathen Chinese. The Christians make occasional attempts to imitate their heathen neighbours, but the priests root up the crop.
Santauhu is the name of a district lying six days north-north-east of Ninghsiafu, on the left bank of the Yellow River, where this stream bends to the north-cast before turning due east. The district is situated in the Kingdom of Alashan; a portion of it is claimed by the Prince of Hangkin (the Ordos King on the other side of the river), but possession is nine points of the law, and the King of Alashan levies taxes throughout the whole district, the inhabitants replying to the Prince of Hangkin that they are quite prepared to pay taxes to him if and when he substantiates his claim to the territory. The district which is only a few miles long and as many broad is exceedingly fertile, the water of the Hoangho being spread over the country by the same system of irrigation canals as prevails around Ninghsia. The population is half Mongol and half Chinese. The Belgian Mission have many stations scattered throughout the district, the centre of which is the Eglise de St. Jacques at Sanchung- kung. This corresponds in the Kingdom of Alashan to Hsinochiao in that of Ottok. In appearance it is a walled Chinese city: each wall is some 400 yards long and 25 feet high with an additional 3-foot high rampart well pierced with holes. The walls
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